Windmills, coffee, artists, and a vineyard all bound into one small package in the heart of Paris, Montmartre. The smell of fresh coffee as you sit cup in hand in the shade of the pink wall building. A soft breeze brushed past and in that instance, it feels like you have just shifted in time. Wait, is that? No can’t be. So focussed on the sheet of paper in front of him, plotting his next masterpiece. No way didn’t I just see this man in a painting in Musée d’Orsay. In the distance music and laughter fills the air. Yes, that is my imagination running away with me. But I could visualize the content of my art books playing in front of me, or maybe I watched Midnight in Paris a few too many times.
But there is a magic in the air, the old french charm throughout Montmartre.
If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast
Ernest Hemingway
Montmartre once was an independent little village, outside of Paris prior to 1860. During the 19th century, it became a popular area for artists to live, due to its prime location on top of the hill, La Butte. This quirky area is compact with charm, history, and gastronomic experiences. Imagine, this is where Renoir, Picasso and many other famous artists once dined, socialised and wandered around.
In the footsteps of artists – Montmartre – Paris Self-guided Walking tour
An early start is a good idea, not only to beat the crowds but it is bloody hot in summer and it is no play-play amount of stairs to reach the top at Sacré-Cœur.
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Head up to Sacré-Cœur Basilica, also known as Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, perched on a small hill via the +-280 stairs or the Funicular. From the top, you will have an amazing view of Paris.
Interesting Facts:
Sacré-Cœur is the second-highest point in Paris and visible from almost any part of Paris. This beautiful church was designed by architect Paul Abadie in romano-byzantine architectural style. The first stone was laid in 1875, and completed in 1914, ready for consecration. But was placed on hold because of WW1. In 1919 the consecration took place. The two sculptures are off King Saint Louis and Joan of Arc.
Tip: Beware of people trying to stuff a piece of paper in your hands, covering part of it and asking you to sign for a cause. When I asked what it was for and to please reveal what was covered by their hand, they got annoyed. I could see that it had amounts written down and signatures next to some. Scam.
Montmartre Village
Stroll through Montmartre Village soak up the ambience, and browse through the quaint little stores. Marvel at the art and drawings of professional drawers and artists who will be delighted to create a personal sketch for you under the trees at Place du Tertre. Many artist have made Montmartre their home Picasso, Miro, Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Manet to name a few. Visit Le Musée de Montmartre and delve into the history of the area. Did you know, this use to be a residence/art studio for artists like Renoir. Want to know more about the Artist Dali and his world of surrealism then pop in at Dali Paris.
Take note, for french cooking Au Cadet de Gascogne is a great choice.
Time for some photos, Château d’eau Montmartre, this water tower is still in use. Rue Du Mont Cenis stairs for an incredible view.
Clos Montmartre
Walk down Rue Cortot, turn right into Rue des Saules, beware not to miss on your right-hand side a small vineyard, Clos Montmartre tucked away against a slope in the middle of Paris. Most tourists walk right past without knowing it is there.
Interesting Facts:
Montmartre has an interesting history of wine, it first was home to a Roman temple dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine. During the 12th century, a Benedectine abbey with a wine press and vineyards were present on the hill. This was destroyed during the French Revolution. But in 1933 a group of local artists replanted vines after petitioning for a grant. Clos Montmartre is closed to the public but since 1934 you can sample the wine and enjoy the festivities of the Harvest festival – Fête des Vendanges- during autumn. They roughly produce about 500 bottles of wine per year.
La Maison Rose
Across the road, you will find La Maison Rose, a little French restaurant located in a picturesque pink maisonette that has been around for more than 100 years. It was purchased by Laure Germaine and her husband Ramon Pichot Gironès in 1905. Picasso frequently visited the cafe as well.
Interesting Facts:
Friend of Picasso, Casagemas fell in love and became obsessed with Laure Germaine, who was married and not interested in him. His obsession drove him to take his own life in front of guests he invited to cafe L’Hippodrome. Picasso painted ‘The death of Casagemas’ in 1901 as a remembrance to his friend, a memorial painting.
Pichot was a Spanish impressionist painter, who mentored Dali from the age of 10.
Buste De Dalida
Walk down Rue de l’Abreuvoir, at the bottom in a little square you will find the bronze Buste De Dalida, a famous French singer and actress. This statue was erected on the 10th anniversary of her death in 1997 in Montmartre where she lived and an area she loved. If you stand next to her and follow her glare you will look up in Rue de l’Abreuvoir and even see some of Sacré-Cœur. Close by you will find Allée des Brouillards, where Renoir use to live.
Le Moulin de la Galette
Le Moulin de la Galette houses one of only two old mills still in Montmartre, most famous probably from Renoir painting ‘Bal du moulin de la Galette’ 1876. You can even enjoy a late french classic dinner in the shadows of great artists and 19th-century Bohemian crowds of Paris who used to meet here on Sunday afternoons and enjoyed a drink and danced under the trees.
Down Rue Lepic make sure to look left down the streets as you pass you will notice the golden dome of Les Invalides in the distance and to the right, the other mill still left in Paris, Le Moulin Blute-Fin.
Further down Rue Lepic a blue door will welcome you, Vincent Van Gogh spent two years 1889-88 in Paris with his brother Theo. He had a love for Montmartre which could be seen in his paintings from then.
Moulin Rouge
To complete the self-guided walking tour of Montmartre a stop at the famous Moulin Rouge. The Moulin Rouge opened its doors as a cabaret in 1889 and saw the like of Renoir and De Toulouse-Lautrec visit. In 1915 a fire destroyed the Moulin Rouge and only 10 years later it was rebuilt. actress-dancer-singer Mistinguett became Co-director of the cabaret. 1940 saw famous singers like Edith Piaf and Yves Montand perform.
Depending on the amount of time you spend on the walking tour, you can head over to the Palais Garnier, home of The Phantom of the Opera.
Tour Tip: 1.)comfortable shoes 2.)advice given by the bus driver is to take care of your bag, and be aware that there are pickpockets around.
To set the mood:
Perfect music and movies to inspire your Montmartre Paris self-guided walking tour on your next visit to Paris.
Music to listen too:
- Moulin Rouge – Juliette Gréco
- Ça, c’est Paris! – Mistinguett
- Il m’a vue nue – Mistinguett
- On m’suit -Mistinguett
- C’est Toujours La Même Histoire – Edith Piaf
- Y’a Pas de Printemps – Edith Piaf
- Bistro Fada – Stephane Wrembel
Movies to watch:
- Amelie of Montmartre
- Sabrina
- Midnight in Paris
- Moulin Rouge
A few more photo spots to look out for:
I am sure you will enjoy this tour, it was one of my most memorable experiences in Paris. Take a moment, enjoy the cafes and absorb the artistic flare of Montmartre Paris.
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*Disclosure: Opinions expressed here are my own
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