Incredible India- Day 1 – Exploring Old Delhi on bicycles 

I have always been fascinated with India, the food, the bright colours, and Bollywood movies. So when a friend showed interest in travelling for 4 days with me to Delhi, I was delighted. After a lot of reading (especially female traveller blogs) and planning, we embarked on our adventure to the capital of India. Top on the list, visit one of the 7 World Wonders, the Taj Mahal. But first a twist, exploring and cycling the narrow lanes of Old Delhi, filled with history and a bit of chaos. 

Exploring Old Delhi
Once in a lifetime experience

*First published 21 Nov 2016 

Being two female travellers, we researched where to stay, how to travel around. Especially how to reach Agra from Delhi, where to eat, and the best way to see the city. We opted to join a cycling tour through the bustling streets of Old Delhi. Instead of trying to make our own way around the area. And I am glad we did, not only for the expert information but also for comfort in knowing you have someone looking out for you. 

Exploring Old Delhi

I can’t think of a more unique way to explore Old Delhi than by bicycle. Both for efficiency in time as you manoeuvre faster through the crowded to the various locations that might be some distance apart and eco-friendliness.  

Delhi by Bike tour with a twist

We met Tenzin from Delhi by Bike for our cycle tour, Old Delhi, with a twist early on our first morning. While climbing onto the bright neon green bicycle, the first thought that came to mind was… “what have I got myself into? At best, I go all wobbly at the sight of people coming at me from the front and here I want to cycle through Delhi. Am I crazy?”

This thought was quickly put out of mind due to Tenzin and his assistant, Deepak, who guided us skillfully through the whole process and had our safety at heart. We started our tour with a bit more confidence following our guide Tenzin. On a ‘normal’ size road, cycling passes people and other cyclists and any and every other mode of transport imaginable. From motorbikes, tuk-tuks, ox wagons, rickshaws, cars and buses. I didn’t have much time to think or even comprehend what was going on; I focused on staying in line with Tenzin, who expertly guided us deeper into Old Delhi, which slowly started revealing itself as the seventeenth-century old city.

On Route- Old Delhi alleys

On route from Delhi Gate, we cycled through one of the oldest parts of Old Delhi with its small streets and alleys to Chandni Chowk. As we navigated our way through those little alleys, we stopped at numerous ruins and sites, giving us some insight into what a magnificent city it once was. Some of the stops included Jama Masjid & Red Fort, which stood out from the rest in their grandeur architecture and size.

The little alleys were a different challenge, or rather adventure than the roads, being so narrow at places, the bicycle’s handles were at times only a few centimetres if not millimetres from the walls. It ended up being so much fun, though, but I almost dragged a guy with me, as his bag sling hooked to the handlebar of my bicycle as he dodged a tuk-tuk, which caused us to spin about. We had a good laugh, waved and went our ways.

The Tibetan colony

Part of the tour was a visit to a laid-back Tibetan colony not too far from Chandni Chowk. But we had to leave our bikes and take the metro, which was well maintained with security checks. It felt like we had stepped into another world at the Tibetan colony. Crossing the bridge with prayer flags, we venture through even smaller alleys to Ama Cafe.

Butter Tea 

With some doubts about tea with butter, I tasted a drink that took me back to memories of having soothing Horlicks, just a bit saltier. The drink was Tibetan Butter tea, traditionally made with tea leaves, yak butter, water and salt. We had a type of bread almost like the South African “rooster brood” to accompany the tea. I have to say I had my doubts at first about butter in tea, just as I had my doubts about lime and coffee in Sri Lanka, but it was terrific; a pity I am lactose intolerant, I would have loved more.

Breakfast at a street cafe

After our venture to the Tibetan colony, we headed back to old Delhi around 11am for breakfast at a local stop. I have to confess I was so afraid of “Delhi belly”. But thanks to Tenzin who took us to Parantha place / Bengali Market, we had none of it, only delicious food! There were various tasty wraps, ranging from spicy, nutty wraps to sugar wraps – my favourite! It was a great way to finish a fantastic tour, reminiscing with fellow tour members about what we saw. 

*Delhi by Bike tour company was well organised, informed and really opened our eyes to a new fun experience. I will do it again!!!

Afternoon at the Market

That afternoon we spent time exploring around our hotel. We ended up taking a tuk-tuk to one of the markets; this in itself was an experience. Somehow we got stuck at the carpet market browsing for hours. Kashmir hand-knotted carpets, in all colours and sizes, and the patterns. Beautiful!!!! And yes, I did buy one, no two. 🙂

Where we stayed and other accommodation 

It was essential to be in a hotel with our interest at heart and location. Lastly, being a local boutique hotel was high on my requirement, with a real feel of Indian hospitality. Hotel Palace Heights, a 3-star budget hotel, is centrally located amidst the heritage Connaught Place, close to Old Delhi and other well-known sights, and not too far from the railway station (most important to us). The rooms were clean and neat with all the basic amenities we did not need anymore as we were out most of the time. Bonus is the north Indian restaurant Zaffran in the hotel, meaning our first night was spent relaxing.

*Personal review - By far the best choice for us, as they had our safety at heart from the word go. Arriving relatively late at 10 pm, the hotel arranged a driver to pick us up from the airport. On arrival at the hotel, the security welcomed us, who made sure that every time we arrived so late at the hotel, he was waiting at the taxi door to escort us inside. The hotel had an old school charm to it, with friendly staff.

Some of our other favourites are The Imperial ($$$) with its colonial style decor and afternoon tea. The Claridges New Delhi ($$) boast with old world charm and contemporary furnishings. 

Nestled within Chandni Chowk, the UNESCO award winning heritage boutique hotel Haveli Dharampura ($$) is saved to my list of the next hotel I will stay in. They have afternoon tea and kites flying on the roof with stunning views of the surroundings. As they mention it is any heritage traveller’s dream.

Rooftop view

Day one conclusion

It was not quite what I expected, but it was a good day. Would so recommend cycling with Tenzin and Delhi by Bike. It gives you a different perspective of the city, you are immersed into it.


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*Photos are from both my phone camera (reason some a bit blurry) and friends camera

*Disclosure: Opinions expressed here are my own & this post has been republished as the site has been down and under ‘construction’

First published 21 Nov 2016

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