A travellers’ memories: Hiking the Great Wall of China

“You did what? Really? That is so awesome. I never knew you could actually do that. Details, please?”

“No way, you spent a night out there? So no hotel? And slept on the ground?”

These are probably the most common responses I receive when people hear about our Great Wall experience in 2019. Mostly enthusiastic or confused. 

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China is probably on most travellers’ bucket list. And so it was on mine too, it is after all one of the 7 World Wonders. But what we experienced not many can say they have done or even thought possible to do. So what made our trip to the Great Wall of China so unique and different? Well, we slept in one of the Great Walls’ watchtowers, and, yes we spent a night up there. We didn’t just venture on the popular and restored part of the wall, where you experience it with every single other person who wants a glimpse and photo. We, together with trained hiking guides, set off to a more secluded, wild section of the wall, a part that has not been restored.

I remember sitting in the watchtower looking down at the wall snaking through valleys and over mountains trying to comprehend the reality of where I was- the idea of spending a night on the Great Wall of China? Pinch me!

Talking to friends, reflecting and going through photos from our travel in 2019, our biggest adventure yet, kept popping up. Although we can’t travel at this moment, I thought I would share with you our experience under the series ‘A Travellers’ Memories’, not only as a story but maybe even for future reference.

Let’s start at the beginning.

A travellers’ memories : Hiking the Great Wall of China

The hike up the Great Wall of China

The day started with meeting our fellow hikers and guides from China Hiking over a hearty lunch at a local restaurant, followed by a 30-minute drive to the foot of a steep hill. Ensuring we have everything we need, from water to our sleeping gear in our backpacks, we started our ascend. Looking up from the foot of the hill to the barely visible wall, it looked comfortably doable. According to the guides, the day’s hike should take us about 4 hours while trekking over 8km with an ascend of 600m. 

All set and ready we headed up in a single file towards a wall no longer visible between all the trees and shrubs. One guide leading, the other at the back with those like me who were a bit slower. Steadily keeping the pace through a trail of both steps and dirt paths that should take us about an hour to reach the wall. Bloody hell, never did I think I was so unfit.

Keep the mood up

Not being able to see the final goal, made the walk more difficult, another set of steps, add to that more shrubs and trees, neverending; it felt so darn long. Really pushing my own strength in keeping my mood up. It was tiring, falling more and more behind. Really? Am I that unfit? My mind started to wander off, “Why am I doing this? I am keeping the others behind?” The reassurance from those with me and a break in the shrubs came just at the right time. “No, they are not that far ahead, it’s just difficult to see everyone, and look, look up. There perched high on top of the hill, you see it? The Great Wall!” Still out of reach but closer, and close enough for that much-needed dose of encouragement. 

It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop. – Confucius

At this midway break, we enjoyed some fresh fruit bought earlier in the area, in the midst of the countryside, 2-hours from Beijing, filled with chestnut orchards and farms. With a much welcoming crisp autumn breeze, we stood there in the clearing for a while, looking down as to how far we have come. The sky was clear from any city pollution. Gosh, it’s tough but so amazing, “Keep going,” I kept on repeating to myself. More determined, and rather focussing on the beauty of the vivid autumn vibes, we moved step by step closer to the top.

Summiting the top

And just like that tired legs were soon a thing of the past as the thickets gave way for the Great Wall of China. A sense of accomplishment as we made it. Well not quite, we stood next to the wall, and what followed was probably not my most glamorous moment. Scaling the steep steps to reach the top on all fours but the reward was incredible. We found ourselves surrounded by the view of an old ink painting of WangQuan (spring valley) with the wall ribboning over and along ridges at parts almost vertically, seemingly impossible. You can’t help but marvel at the engineering skills of the masters of old.

History of the Wall. Did you know...

Don't know about you, but I was always mesmerized by the Great Wall; as a child, I remember hearing things like you can see it from space, although that is not entirely true. It is still a massive structure that runs across the northern part of China for about 21 000km. It is an integral part of China's history and probably the largest and most prolonged construction period ever. Okay, get this, construction on the first structures or components of the wall happened between 770-476 BC; these were smaller sections and individual state borders. Let that just sit with you for a moment. Over time and through the different dynasties, it unfolded into what we know today, a centuries-old fortification built as a military defensive line. The section we hiked in was constructed and rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty from 1368-1644.

Lastly, it is a Unesco World Heritage site since 1987 and one of the New World Wonders.

Hiking West to East Jiankou

 The final leg of the day saw us journeying along the wall through 7 beacon watchtowers before we reached our final destination for the night. At this point, tired legs were a secondary thought as there were just so many pictures jumping into my camera frame. 

 On one section of the wall, a mini forest of colour-changing trees, ever so often rustling in the breeze. A few small inscriptions on the wall, wondering what they mean. Maybe the craftsmen or those in charge of that area when it was built. Other parts, you can see how time and weather have played a role in the wall’s deterioration. Rain being the biggest culprit. As the sun started lowering over the rolling hills, we made it to our final location for the day. 

Spending the night on the Great Wall of China

That night would be a dark moon, so before the last glimpses of the sun disappeared, we swiftly and with care set up our tent inside the tower. The towers offer a bit more protection from the elements, as it was October and the night temperatures can easily reach close to freezing point. Leave no trace, don’t move or damage anything while setting up. With this task completed, our food arrived just as we sat down to unwind with a local beer overlooking the Ming Great Wall. A home-cooked meal by a local farmer’s wife, the same man who brought it up and with whom we will have breakfast the following morning. Doing this trek you have two options, either spend the night in a tent or in a local BnB. So those who prefer to stay in a BnB followed him and one guide down before it was completely dark. 

Suddenly darkness took over, and there we remained on top of the Great Wall in the shadow of night, with only our headlamps for light.

No surprise that it was an early night, tired bodies looking forward to a good night’s rest. Quite an extraordinary camping experience. Sleeping in a watchtower of one of the World Wonders.  Settling down in your sleeping bag, on a thin mattress, you can feel the carved bricks of the wall, you are lying where many men before might have rested their heads. Imagine if these walls could speak. 

Dawn on the Great Wall of China

As dawn broke, the mountainside turned flaming red as the autumn sun rose through the mist. All packed up, making sure nothing is disturbed, and nothing that was brought with is left behind, we set off on the morning stretch, a 2km hike down past two more watchtowers to the same farmer from the night befores’ house, to enjoy a home-cooked breakfast. Going down was much more comfortable than going up the day before, can’t say that all will agree with me, my hubby, he prefers the uphills. 

Take nothing but photographs

Leave nothing but footprints

Keep nothing but memories

Arriving in the village, one of our group purchased the most delicious smoked tofu from a bicycle merchant passing by. Breakfast was delicious, the best porridge I have had in awhile. 

Day two – Hike from Jiankou to Mutianyu 

The second day we could not join the hike as we had an early flight. But this part of the hike is done without backpacks filled with sleeping gear. Crossing from Jiankou to Mutianyu great wall; this is a combination of both wild and restored wall; covers about 10km. It is a much more strenuous hike up. Including climbing a ladder at Zhengbeilou watchtower and an extremely steep part at the Ox horn section. We joined for the hour drive to the starting point before heading off to the airport. Absolutely beautiful mountainside, scattered with little hotels and resorts. 

Reminiscence

This trip was our last travel experience before the world came to a stand still. It was a once in a lifetime adventure, a truly memorable experience, one that will stay with us, and only a few share. May we all be able to travel and experience the world again, when it is safe to do so.

Take note

We had this amazing experience in October 2019. 

Camping is not allowed in the popular sections, like Mutianyu. Plus, if you wish to hike or spend a night on the wall (hopefully we will be able to do it again in a few years) you need to do it through a recognised company. After doing a lot of research and a final recommendation, we went with the company China Hiking who specializes in off-the-beaten-track experiences for those in search of untouched nature, culture, and adventure. The founders and team of China hiking have hiked the Great Wall more than 500 times in the past ten years. They not only offer experiences on the Great wall but also in Mongolia, the Tibetan mountains, and other parts of China. Lonely Planet listed them as part of their top 10 World’s best hikes 2019.  Currently there is no activity on their social pages (understandable due to current situations), but I hope in the future they will be able to host these amazing trips.

Hiking gear

All brands below are from South Africa. I prefer hand made, small batch – slow fashion. Products that will last, can be fixed and sustainable. (Not sponsored or affiliated, these are brands I have tried and love).

• • • Hand crafted backpack by Brothers and son – Made with full grain leather, waxed canvas for water resistance.
    • Highlander Hiking boots by Jim Green – Made from full grain leather, ankle padding for comfort and support, with the sole from genuine rubber.
    • Heavy Hikers socks by Cape Alpaca – well padded in the sole.
    • K-way Down jacket from Cape Union Mart – lightweight but warm (doubled as my pillow for the night).

xxx

*Opinions expressed here are my own.