Eerily silent, the only sound in this vast emptiness of the Namib desert is wind gushing around forlorn ruins shuffling earth around. Sand piled high to the ceilings, billowing through windows and doorways as if someone forgot to close them. Bright wallpaper peeling, revealing the walls’ actual state, makes you reminisce of what beautiful, loving homes these once where.
In search of ghosts?
A hunt for porcelain bathtubs commences. One sliding down a dune, another shifted to the balcony over time, a few still upright in place in the once family bathroom, now water replaced by sand. The ghostly hallway of the hospital leads toward rooms where memories from the past still lurk.
The only part still visible above the desert sand of a handful of the derelict buildings are their roofs. Enter at own risk, Kolmanskop, the ghost town of Namibia.
The eerie ‘rich’ ghost town of Kolmanskop in Namibia’s story
Far on the Namib desert’s isolated and vast edge lies the uncanny structures of what once was a bustling ‘rich’ town. When diamond fever took over at the beginning of the 20th century before WW1, Kolmanskop was a flourishing town 10km from the coast.
When Zacharias Lewala spotted something sparkling in 1908, the area was transformed almost overnight, due to the diamond rush that followed. The town boasted with a post office, bakery, butchery, and even an ice factory and for entertainment had several bars, a bowling alley, theatres, and ballroom. This thriving town had beautiful German-inspired mansions, a hospital, and the first x-ray machine in the southern hemisphere. For numerous, the dream, but within 50 years, Kolmanskop was abandoned after the earth was mostly depleted of its precious resources. The last family left in 1956. To this day the harsh desert is slowly reclaimed it grain by grain.
How to get there
Kolmanskop is situated in the southwestern part of Namibia, the closest town is Luderitz 10km to coast. Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, is 850km away. The best way to explore Namibia is to rent a 4×4 and road trip across the country. It is far apart from other attractions in Namibia but for me absolutely worth making the detour. We started in Windhoek and made our way down to Luderitz over a few days and flew back to Windhoek from there. There are only 2 flights per week in and out of Luderitz (do check current info), so plan well.
Another favourite route is to travel north from South Africa, crossing the border either at Alexander Bay, Sendelingsdrif, Vioolsdrif, Onseepkans, Nakop and Rietfontein. Do check which border crossing are open. We would recommend a road trip during the Namaqua flower season, that spans into part of Namibia.
Also see: How to visit Namaqualand flowers route
On route down from Windhoek, we stopped at Swakopmund, Welwitschia Plains, Walvis Bay, Dune 7, the moon landscape, Solitaire, and NamibRand Nature Reserve. Here we stayed at Wolwedans in the Namib desert.
Where to stay
There is no accommodation at Kolmanskop, nearest town is Luderitz about 10km away, I would recommend at least two to three nights. It is such a relaxed fishing town, and yes their seafood is amazing.
If you are travelling to or from Windhoek, a night or two at Wolwedans is recommended. A Eco luxury lodge, in the middle of NamibRand Nature reserve. A place to unwind, disconnect and relax.
Also see: Wolwedans- Namib desert lodge getaway
What to know
Permits
To enter Kolmanskop, you will require a permit, it is a restricted area. There are 4 types of available, and you can purchase them either at the gate or in the town of Lüderitz at the Lüderitz Safari and Tours office.
Adult Permit and Child permit: This is basically your entrance ticket, which allows you to enter Kolmanskop between 9 am-1 pm on a Monday to Saturday. There are two guided tours, the first at 9:30 am and the second at 11 am.
Photo Permit: Amateur photographers who what to photograph at sunrise and sunset will need to obtain a photo permit.
Special Permit: For additional time tours, price subject to request.
Shop and museum
There is a small cafe serving quick meals, a shop and a museum set up by De Beers showcasing displays and images of mining and Kolmanskop in its heyday.
When to visited
We visited during July, in the midst of winter, the weather was perfect. When we arrived it was cool but soon heated up, only the wind brought a bit of a chill. I can’t imagine visiting during the scorching summer months, so prepare well to stay hydrated and protected from the sun. Up to September the weather is still moderate.
You can visit during the opening hours with your adult permit or obtain the photo permit that will allow you to take photos either during sunrise or sunset for a more dramatic effect.
What to bring
- Your permit to enter
- Water – there is a cafe but trust me you will be out exploring for a few hours.
- A sunhat, sunscreen, and sunglasses for the desert sun.
- Scarf for the chill in the wind and the keep the sand out of your face and camera gear.
- Camera gear
- Closed and comfortable shoes, watch out for loose splintered floorboards, and nails.
Our take on Namibia’s ghost town of Kolmanskop
Kolmanskop might not be on everyone’s list of places to see in Namibia, but after visiting I would recommend looking at adding it, not only the ghost town but the sleepy little town of Luderitz was a welcome alternative. Being 850km away from Windhoek you will drive down through area like Solitaire, Sossusvlei, and the NamibRand Nature Reserve and might even spot the wild horses of Aus. Perfect if you are into photography, remember to take with enough memory cards.
xxx
*They have a sign “Entering of old buildings is at own risk. Some of the buildings could be unsafe.”, these buildings are dilapidated, and some falling apart.
*Disclosure: Opinions expressed here are my own
